Prologue
Itinerary

Part 1. SIGNING IN
1. Tourists' Traces
Performing tourism
Languaging tourism and heritage
The ethnography of texts
A medium's history
Visiting visitor books

2. The Ammunition Hill Museum: Authenticity, Bunkers and Language Ideology
In the museum
Generals' autographs and soldiers' love letters
Postscript I

Part 2. THANK YOU FOR DYING FOR OUR COUNTRY
3. The Ammunition Hill Visitor Book: Inside-Out and Outside-In
Commemorative affordances from within
Figures of the 2005-2006 visitor book
Commemoration community
Collective articulation
Aesthetic articulation
Material articulation

4. "I WAS HERE!!!": Indexicality and Voice
Commemoration literacies and writing and reading rituals
Signing
A matrix of signatures
Signers' identities, signers' anonymity
Open addressivity structures

5. Articulating Commemoration
Mediating commemoration
Contesting performances
Theological non-Zionist challenges
Hyper-Zionist ethnonational challenges

6. "Write I was impressed and not I enjoyed": Co-Writing Commemoration
Playful utterances
Words, drawings, and visual narratives

7. Gender and Familial Performances
"Fought like Lions": Institutional representations of men
"IDF Soldiers - I'm mad about you"
Families' commemoration performances
Contesting masculinities

Part 3. SIGNING OUT
8. "Like a magazine loaded with bullets": The VIP Visitor Book
Managing autographs: The pragmatics of signing
Autographs' capital and the reconstitution of hegemony
"For Kacha the untiring!": Elite networking
"The Temple Mount is in Our Hands"
International VIPs: Jews, Generals and three Jordanian Officers

9. Ethnography²
Undoing the ethnographic
Dasein or being (looked at) there
Collecting practices
The story toes tell: (Dis)embodied (re)presentation
Performance ethnography and the occurrence of the academic text

10. Conclusions

Postscript II
Transcription conventions
References